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this campground has no phone, no website, no address every morning the mist rises up from the belly of the gorge spreading sparkled dew drops on the grass, little heirloom baubles, left over from the soupy, wet pre-dawn air and the roof, of this barn-red shack sags under the coming southeastern sun, capping a porch littered with camp stoves. red, blue and white coolers starting to sweat and filled with Pabst Blue Ribbon dot the uneven floor planks a rushed carpentry job, done for free. the sign hanging above the busted ole' RC Cola machine is missing an O in R cky Top Retreat, but people know this place for its proprietor, Roger. he sits in an abandoned, frayed green camp chair, lounging, surrounded by his adopted rock climbing children. he verbally slings his man-on-a-mountain colloquialisms into the air as steam rises off our ten coffee cups, his long-timers. "yep, I paid the weather bill this week,.... gonna be a good one, well... that is, its gonna be hot till it rains," he sings, smiling at Muggs, my dog, the canine campground director of mayhem and sexual infamy who lies splayed out, rolling on his back sunning his belly, doing the grass dance. we've been here four months, with four to go there are nine other travelers on the same schedule content to wake each day and climb together drinking Roger's free mud-river coffee and shaking last night's rust from our eyes. every night the family gathers piling in and around the shack, to eat. roommates bound by the walls of these Wild and Wonderful West Virginia woods. we sit in the low slung porch swing, the make -shift picnic table, or just kick back in the grass encircling Roger's rustic climbers cabin and tell harrowing and comical stories of peril while a symphony of southern rain forest crickets sing into the dark. and our communal voices hover on the sweet summer air, dancing a stompgrass jig across the mountain stars an electric envelope enclosing our four foot flaming camp fire. .......a fire that some of us will eventually jump after a few more beers, to rattle the weekenders. Muggs rests on the porch, wary and watching scanning the exhausted fumbling of his extended pack, a motley crew he has grown to love. when he finally falls asleep, his muscular haunches kick and I imagine that in his nightly dreams, he catches one of those deer or rabbits that he loves to chase. at seven months old, this has been his home for over half his young life, and it shows in his fiery amber eyes, a touch of wild, evident in the appearance of all us long-timers. a certain rogue dishevelment seems to overtake and settle on those who measure success by days spent in the woods. the tribe soon stumbles off to bed, bodies tired and minds relaxed with the appropriate amount of protein and adult beverages.
every afternoon we decide on a plan packs get loaded full of water, food, and climbing gear on the unpaved pot-hole infested road that separates Roger's land from the Park we'll pile into vans and pick-up trucks homemade converted vehicles all turned into mobile homes on the cheap relishing travel and avoiding conformity touring and climbing our bliss. living off of five thousand or so a year our ratty, mangled wardrobes in sharp contrast to the radiant red-brown hue of vibrating passion on our exposed skin. i hoist a black pack bathed in dirt strapping it to my back as Muggs wags his tail he knows that in ten minutes he will be off the leash and free to roam the mountainside, in search of those secret treasures that placid eyed dogs locked up in air conditioned homes, can only dream on.
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