It’s Bouldering SZN!
The weather has been cooling down, which means it’s time for…
~BOULDERING SEASON~
No more sliding off the holds with sweaty hands (because that’s totally the reason you didn’t send it), or being eaten alive by mosquitoes between attempts. No more being harassed by copperheads while you roll in Jurassic poison ivy. The rocks are warmed by the sun just enough that your fingers aren’t freezing.
If you’re here on a weekday, Meadow Top is a great place to try out some classic boulders all in one area. But if you’re stopping by on a weekend, be prepared to fight for parking spots* and wait your turn to send.
~*Intermission~
Before we talk about some alternative places to boulder, we want to take a quick moment to talk about bouldering etiquette. We know that 99.9% of you are great stewards, but we’re trying to reach those folks who may be a little out of touch with how their actions impact others. If you see someone at the crag who doesn’t pass the vibe check, send them this article—maybe they’ll get the hint.
We asked a bunch of boulderers what their biggest pet peeves are at the crag. If any of these sound familiar, it might be time to rethink your etiquette.
Leaving Tick Marks
They are called “problems” for a reason; let others enjoy the complex puzzle of solving how to climb the rock on their own.
Sharing is caring
As the number of visitors to the NRG increases each year, there will be times when the crag is more crowded than we’d like.
If your group of 6 decided to set up camp at a 4-star spot, be prepared to let the solo folks jump in line every once in a while. Or better yet, consider splitting up your huge party or going to a less-populated crag.
Leave No Trace
Need we say more?
Ecological Impact
Be aware of how your setup affects the environment. Pad sprawl can easily damage nearby plant life if not kept in check. (That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be safe—just be safe smartly.)
Wildlife like green salamanders can also be harmed when gear is tossed around in caves or sensitive areas.
Know Who’s Land You’re On
Do you know some of the crags are on private land? Irresponsible use can lead to permanent closures!
Some bonus etiquette tips that deserve a shout-out:
Camera Etiquette: It’s awesome that you want to record your send, but make sure others are okay with being recorded.
Music: Like camera etiquette, make sure everyone is okay with a speaker.
Wear hi-vis gear during Hunting Seasons.
You may notice a common theme amongst these bullet points: be respectful and aware of those around you. Everyone deserves equal access to the outdoors.
~Back To The Main Feature~
Photographer: Adam Clayton
Now that the lake has started draining, you’ll find some great rocks that have been underwater all summer. A great location for cold sunny days with calm winds.
Check out Water Stone in the upcoming weeks for the Pirate’s Cove guide!
Winter spot: A lot of the sandstone here is dark colored so it gets sun all day, heats up, and it stays warm.
Check the water levels before you go. Minimum water level is about 4.5ft. As it goes higher, some problems go under water.
This park hosted its official grand opening a few weeks ago and there are some great boulder problems.
This is a new area so there aren’t many problems recorded, but Mountain Project is your best bet for now. Eventually 27Crags, and Kaya will have information as well. If you love exploring boulders with unknown grades and searching for FAs, this is the place for you (*note that you MUST report any FAs to Mountain Project).
Cotton Bottom has climbs for everyone, but as the land of V4s, it’s particularly good for the intermediate boulderer.
Though it is right next to the river, the boulder problems are NOT water level dependent, so it can be a good alternative to Hawk’s Nest if you drove all the way down there and forgot to check water levels,
This is a bunch of small boulder clusters, so if you don’t like one, try another. For example, you could try the V6 Souvenir Crack: a 20’ off-width roof crack.
Conveniently located in and adjacent to the AAC Campground. No driving necessary.
These two areas have the closest approaches of all the bouldering areas.
Fun circuits allow you to get a little “exercise snack” to get the blood moving if you only have 30 minutes or as a warmup before moving on to other areas.
For more information about the different bouldering problems available in each area, check out Mountain Project, 27Crags, and Kaya for the latest. Or swing by Water Stone Outdoors to get yourself a Bouldering Guidebook.
